Thursday 21 November 2013

Sustainability in Textiles

'Meeting the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs'
United Nations 1987

As a future designer, it is my duty to produce considerate designs, making sure that each stage of the process is carefully thought about and the end product has a 360 degree life cycle.  At this stage of my career, as a student it is quite difficult to factor this in to my projects, as there is only a short amount of time given to complete a brief, and to be honest I am more concerned with producing samples which look good rather than are environmentally friendly.  However these classes and researching more into the Ted 10 principles have made me think more carefully, and in future projects I will definitely consider each stage of the design process in a more Eco friendly way.

Looking at my most recent collection of samples, I have analysed the different stages in production to see if I have been as considerate to the environment as I could have been...

Materials used: 
Cotton Organdy - Crispness of fabric is due to acid being added,which is harmful however cotton is sustainable, renewable and biodegradable
Acetate - is made up of chemicals and acids but is made from a renewable resource plus can be composted.
Viscose Thread - is a natural polymer made from wood pulp, however is made by adding chemicals, so it's use is declining due to its harm to the environment




Process & machines:
Laser Cutting - High power consumption, although I only used it twice
Heat Press - Also high, concentrated power consumption but only used a few seconds at a time
Sewing Machine - Apart from electricity used, very low in terms of possible harm to the environment




My samples involved a lot of cutting & sewing together individual pieces of various elements, and I tried to use them all, with the  offcuts being saved for possible future projects...





So overall, when looking further in to each area, I can see that I could definitely have been more careful when selecting materials, and this is something I will consider carrying on to future design briefs.  However, the field that I would like to work in is couture, and although the materials used might be expensive, the likelihood that these garments will be thrown away after use is slim.  They will be passed on through the generations and be seen as desirable so will most likely be given to family members or charity shops.


Thursday 24 October 2013

Textile Innovation


I had never quite realised how many uses there are for textiles. I have been studying the subject for 3 years, but have only ever thought of the production of textiles for use in fashion design or interior design. After my first two sessions in Textile Innovation, Territories of Practise class with Ros Hibbert, I can see that I have been quite naive. There is such a varied scope of industries that need textiles, for example; Automotive, Medical, Domestic, Sport, Industrial and Agricultural, not just clothing and home furnishings that look pretty... For a fabric to be commercially viable, for use in these industries, it has to be flexible, easy to produce and have a continuous source of availability. Some examples are;

Cotton

Provides 45% of the world's fibre consumption
It is regenerable, can be recycled and composted



 Linen


Is a very ancient material which is hugely versatile and useful
Enzyme use can improve environmental aspects of production



 


Silk

Is an animal based protein
Widely used for it's aesthetic appeal & luxurious qualities







Wool

Natures' high performance fibre
Weatherproof, UV resistant, fibre protection & has elasticity properties







Luxury Hair Fibre

Mohair, Cashmere
Expensive as the animals that produce them cannot be kept in captivity
Excellent thermal insulators






Man-made Cellulosics

Produced from natural cellulose sources of wood pulp, cotton, linen & bamboo
Textiles are fluid, skin friendly with strong wet strength, absorbency & breathability





Acrylic

Oil-based, used widely in paints, plastics & resins
Can be recycled although difficult to find 100% acrylic blend




Polyamide

Known as Nylon, produced from oil
Very strong & light, resists wear & tear, blends well with other fibres





Polyester

Oil based, offers wide range of function & performance
Reuse is possible via product collection, such as polyester water bottles or clothing






Stretch Fibres

Used for comfort, fit, ease of movement and crease recovery
Lycra is a branded elastic fibre







These are the main natural and man-made fibres that are used generally worldwide.  Of course there are many more exciting, unusual methods of producing fabrics, such as spraying, growing, 3D weaving and knitting, also using very large or micro size yarns.

The technique which fascinates me most is 3D printing.  I feel it is such an amazing innovation and the possibilities seems endless.  It can be applied in architecture, engineering, fashion, footwear, eye wear and food, among others.  3D printed bones, skin, blood vessels and medication look set to revolutionise the medical industry, and I feel that something which could improve and save lives should be given as much funding and research as possible.  It seems like such a vital technique for our future.  The building trade could also benefit from 3D printing, providing a cost-effective method for more affordable housing.  Building materials are made directly from the desert by turning sand into glass with heat or binding solutions.  The first working 3D printer was created in 1984 by Chuck Hull of 3D Systems Corp and since the start of the 21st century, growth in sales has rocketed, and looks set to continue.  It seems crazy that what would seem like an industrial, speciality technique machinery is available to the everyday consumer in Maplin for only £699!












Images courtesy of WGSN and Google
























Wednesday 8 May 2013

Theory: Violent Fashion, Steven Klein

I am currently researching and writing an essay on the theme of violent images in fashion photography, and have been looking at the photographer Steven Klein.  He shot the Dolce & Gabbana Spring/Summer 2007 campaign, which later became banned.  Almost every single one of his images portrays violence of some sort, and whilst they are beautifully shot, I am questioning why there is a need for this to sell fashion...


Banned as it was seen to portray rape